pjt222/agent-almanac/cut-gemstone

Rough Assessment Checklist:
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Factor             | Assessment                               |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Species            | Identified? (MANDATORY before cutting)   |
|                    | Toxic dust risk? (check below)           |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Fractures          | Internal fractures that limit yield?     |
|                    | Will the stone break during cutting?     |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Colour zones       | Where is the best colour concentrated?   |
|                    | Can the cut centre the colour?           |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Inclusions         | Large inclusions that should be cut away?|
|                    | Silk for star stones? (orient for star)  |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Size and shape     | What finished shapes fit this rough?     |
|                    | Calibrated size possible?                |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
| Yield estimate     | Approximate finished weight as % of rough|
|                    | Typical: 25-40% for faceting             |
|                    | Typical: 40-60% for cabochons            |
+--------------------+------------------------------------------+
 
SAFETY — TOXIC DUST MATERIALS:
These minerals produce hazardous dust when cut. Use wet cutting ONLY,
ensure ventilation, and wear an appropriate respirator:
- Chrysotile (asbestos serpentine) — NEVER cut dry
- Malachite — copper carbonate dust is toxic
- Cinnabar — mercury sulfide, extremely toxic
- Orpiment/Realgar — arsenic compounds
- Chrysocolla — copper silicate, moderate risk
- Tiger's eye (fibrous) — fine silica fibers
 
ALL stone cutting produces silica dust. Always use water cooling
and never grind or cut dry without a dust extraction system.

Orientation Principles by Stone Type:
 
PLEOCHROIC STONES (tourmaline, sapphire, tanzanite, iolite):
- Orient the table perpendicular to the crystal axis showing
  the best face-up colour
- Tourmaline: the c-axis often shows dark/opaque colour —
  orient the table to view the a/b axis colour
- Sapphire: slight pleochroism — orient for deepest blue face-up
- Tanzanite: trichroic — blue/violet axis preferred for table
 
STAR STONES (star ruby, star sapphire):
- Silk (rutile needles) must be parallel to the base
- Cut as cabochon with the dome centred over the silk
- The star appears at 90 degrees to the silk orientation
 
CAT'S EYE STONES (chrysoberyl cat's eye, tiger's eye):
- Fibrous inclusions must run perpendicular to the length
  of an elongated cabochon
- The eye appears as a bright line across the shortest dimension
 
COLOUR-ZONED MATERIAL (sapphire, ametrine, watermelon tourmaline):
- Position colour zones so they are not visible face-up
- Or feature them intentionally (ametrine, watermelon tourmaline)

Cabochon Cutting Sequence:
 
EQUIPMENT SETUP:
- Cabbing machine with water drip on all wheels
- Wheel sequence: 80, 220, 600, 1200, 3000 (or 1200 + polish)
- Dop sticks and dop wax (or cyanoacrylate adhesive)
- Safety glasses — MANDATORY
- Avoid loose clothing, tie back long hair
 
STEP-BY-STEP:
1. SLAB: Cut a slab 5-8mm thick through the best area
2. TEMPLATE: Mark the desired outline (oval, round, etc.)
   using a template and aluminum pencil
3. TRIM: Remove excess material on the trim saw or 80-grit wheel
   Cut close to the line but leave 1-2mm margin
4. DOP: Attach the slab to a dop stick with dop wax
   Heat the wax, press the stone flat-side down, centre it
5. SHAPE (80 grit): Grind to the template outline
   Work all the way around, maintaining symmetry
6. DOME (220 grit): Shape the dome profile
   Standard dome height = ~1/3 of the stone's width
   Keep the dome symmetrical — check from all angles
7. SMOOTH (600 grit): Remove 220-grit scratches
   Work systematically, keeping even pressure
8. PRE-POLISH (1200 grit): Remove 600-grit scratches
   The surface should feel smooth to the fingernail
9. FLAT BOTTOM: Remove the stone from the dop, re-dop
   face-down, and grind the bottom flat on 220 → 600 grit
10. POLISH: See polish-gemstone skill for final finishing

Standard Round Brilliant Angles (quartz-family, RI ~1.54):
+------------------+-------+--------+
| Facet            | Angle | Index  |
+------------------+-------+--------+
| Crown main       | 42°   | 96-index: 3,9,15,21,27,33,39,45 |
| Crown break      | 25°   | (bisect mains)                   |
| Crown star       | 15°   | (bisect breaks toward table)     |
| Table            | 0°    | flat    |
| Pavilion main    | 43°   | 96-index: 3,9,15,21,27,33,39,45 |
| Pavilion break   | Use GemCad or published diagrams           |
+------------------+-------+--------+
 
Standard Round Brilliant Angles (corundum, RI ~1.76):
+------------------+-------+
| Facet            | Angle |
+------------------+-------+
| Crown main       | 37°   |
| Pavilion main    | 41°   |
+------------------+-------+
 
CRITICAL: Pavilion angles determine brilliance.
- Too shallow → light leaks through bottom ("windowing")
- Too steep → dark extinction zones
- Correct angle → total internal reflection (brilliance)